The process
After shearing, our fleeces are entrusted to the best crafts' workers for washing, carding, combing, spinning, dyeing and weaving.
Washing : to remove grease and other impurities. Fleeces which are not too contaminated will give an excellent output : ie 1kg of rough mohair will give 800 gms of clean fibres.
Carding
Carding : to homogenise the mohair by disentangling the fibres. After carding the mohair looks like a perfectly homogenous web, but on closer inspection you can see that the fibres are in all directions.
Combing
Combing this parallels the fibres putting them all in line it also eliminates the short fibres (less than 4 cm) and creates a ribbon hence the term combed ribbon.
Spinning
Spinning : Streches and twists the ribbon to make a yarn, during the spinning the yarn is "teased" to give a textured yarn with a ringlet effect producing a light yarn with plenty of "body" yet very solid.
Dyeing : In order not to spoil the texture of the yarns they are put in hanks for the next stage : dyeing. The dyes used are selected for their light fastness and brightness. The hanks are immersed in large vats then heated very gently until boiling. When the dye is sufficiently fixed to the yarn, the temperature is gently decreased then the hanks are rinsed and dried.
Weaving
Weaving
is the ultimated stage for part of our mohair, it is woven on very wide looms (3 meters) to make blankets, plaids, scarves and stoles in plain colours, tartans or checks.
• MOHAIR A UNIQUE NATURAL FIBER •
Made from the fleece of the Angora goat, mohair is renowned as one of the most luxurious natural fibers in the world.
Its luster, its shine and its touch make it possible to obtain shimmering and lasting colors.
Passionate breeders, we got together and founded our transformation association.
All our products are identified by the sign of quality represented by this label MOHAIR DES FERMES DE FRANCE.
This mark with demanding standards is your guarantee of irreproachable quality.
We make the commitment :
• to use exclusively for our articles mohair from our farms
• to breed our angora goats with respect for animal welfare
• to entrust the transformation of our fleeces to the best French and Italian manufacturers
• to use dyes for our dyes that meet all European standards (Oeko-tex, CE Reach)
• to work with respect for all our partners.
• SILK: FROM ORIGIN TO OUR SONS •
The history of silk seems to begin between 3000 and 2000 years BC. (the oldest fragment of silk discovered in China dating from 2570 BC. It would then have continued with three millennia during which China would have traded in this precious fabric without ever passing on the secret. The art of making silk is would then be gradually transmitted to other civilizations through spies of all kinds (monks, princesses ...) to looters and merchants.
Caractéristique : Silk being a natural material, it is possible to follow an eco-responsible path during all stages of production.
Quality : there is a very large panel; to spin with our mohair, Mulberry silk is used
The silk Mulberry is renowned for its very high quality and filmed from the cocoons of silkworm larvae bred in captivity.
The food of these cocoons is the mulberry and it is this food which gives the natural white or off-white color. The rearing conditions allow the larvae to spin round, smooth, light and uniform colored silk threads. Mulberry silk fibers are also known to be firmer, stronger and more durable than steel fibers of the same diameter.
Ongetta : company based in Italy, importer of silk, which is committed to not having a negative impact on the ecosystem. The greatest attention is paid to the processing of the silk, which allows the product to keep all its characteristics unchanged. Engaged in the research and development of a continuous and sustainable production chain in order to improve its manufacturing process, Greenpeace Detox Engagement s'est engagé à éliminer huit des onze groupes de substances chimiques reconnus comme polluants et dangereux. Son objectif est d'atteindre l'élimination des 11 groupes en 2020.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) : the world's first textile processing standard for organic fibers including: • ecological criteria: evaluation of all chemical inputs which must meet basic requirements in terms of toxicity and biodegradability; • social criteria: all processors and manufacturers must meet criteria based on key standards of the International Labor Organization (ILO);
Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex : silk complies with the requirements of the REACH legislation and the regulations on the total lead content in children's products.
Global Recycle Standard (GRS) : promotes sustainable practices in the textile value chain to create material change, restore the environment and improve life around the world. It guarantees:
• recycled content of products • full compliance with social and environmental requirements and the use of less hazardous chemicals in production processes.